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In my experience, Parisians fall into two categories- the nicest, most helpful of all people and the disgruntled, can’t be bothered to acknowledge you American’s who invade our city and have the audacity to assume that I speak English. I am fortunate to have met more of the first than the latter, but what an impression these few curdled individuals make. My first experience being more than ten years ago when I bought a round trip metro ticket that only worked half way. No big deal, really. But it was the attitude of the metro worker that frustrated me to no end. But the most revealing sourpuss I’ve met was an older gentleman in a camera shop just a week ago. I stopped to ask if he knew where the local theater was as online maps and my cell phone application had led me astray. I asked in my best French if he spoke English. I didn’t have to rely upon my limited French to understand his response. It went something like this, “Why do you ask if I speak English. Why don’t you understand French? You come to my country, my city, and…” The rest became incoherent grumbling. To salvage the situation, because I did need his help, I asked in broken French if he knew where the theater was. He pointed down the street and went on about his business. Sigh. Maybe the stereotypes were correct. But I reminded myself of the countless others I had met who had been so kind and helpful. One sour apple would not taint my impression of all Parisians.

And so I sat aside my bitterness and went on about my summer in Paris. It wasn’t until I visited the American Cemetery at Omaha beach in Normandy that I remembered this man. I am not ashamed to admit that I wept openly standing among the white crosses with the invasion beach in clear view. Why are cemeteries so beautiful? How does a place so ugly, where so much pain and suffering once existed, carry the cool summer ocean breeze across green grass as if just created by the breath of god? This is something every American should experience to appreciate our freedom and what so many sacrificed to free the world from certain tyranny. I think this old Parisian must have forgotten what these boys sacrificed for him.

Visiting the Normandy museum in Caen brought to fruition my perspective. I learned of the history of France before and during the occupation. I was astonished how easily Hitler invaded and caught the French armies unprepared. I was even more surprised by politics of some French officials and how these leaders encouraged the propaganda and occupation of the German forces. They just laid down and rolled over, something I found so hard to accept as an American brought up on the fundamentals of courage and perseverance. I learned of how the British defended their island against invasion and stood firm when greatly outnumbered and at a technological disadvantage. Way to go Churchhill!

Then came the Normandy invasion. So many boys. So many lives lost. British. American. Canadian. It is estimated that over four hundred thousand men died establishing a foothold in Northern France. As I walked among the crosses, listened to the names of the soldiers in the white halls of the memorial, watched footage of their struggle on the beach and through the countryside, I thought of what we as a country sacrificed for the French. I thought of what every American still sacrifices. How many precious moments have the grandchildren of these soldier never known? How many birthdays, weddings, graduations, have been less from missing someone who gave his life in Normandy? I remembered my own grandfather who died in his early fifties. He served in the Navy during the war on an aircraft carrier and was wounded during an attack when his platform was shot out from under him. There is still talk in my family that it was shrapnel fragments in his chest that contributed the cancer that took him when I was only nine. I was lucky, though. I had these memorable years to know him, so many more than those whose grandfathers never came home.

Am I bitter? Yes. Am I distraught? Absolutely. I say to this grumpy old Parisian man who questioned my inability to understand French- be thankful that I have chosen to spend my money in your city; be thankful that my grandfather chose to fight for your freedom; be thankful that American’s hold so dear the principle of freedom that we came to your aid and made it possible for you to speak your beloved language and not the German that would have been your legacy.

Here’s an idea. I want to take this grumpy old man and visit the American Cemetery in Normandy. Let him count the number of lives that were forever changed fighting for his country. Then, as long as there is a memory of someone who fought in the war, let him buy a drink for every British, Canadian, and American visitor he has the pleasure of meeting for the rest of his life. This would be a small token to represent that great debt he and his country will never be able to repay.

I’ve never been more proud to be an American than on this day. God bless you veterans and thank you ever so much for your sacrifice!

Paris Photos

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What once drew writers to Paris like sailors to the siren’s song? Emerson, Twain, Hemingway, Stein, Fitzgerald, Steinbeck, Irving, to name a few, have all found inspiration living here at one time or another, the most prolific years being those between the world wars. Then was an expanding time of progressive thinking to match the changing technology of the world- mass transportation, instant communication, the automobile, jazz mixing with cabaret. Economics made for affordable living and inexpensive printing in city of lights. Artists of all disciplines – painters, writers, musicians, dancers, photographers – inspired one another and progressed their art, borrowing from each and transforming ideas. This was a time of discovery, reflection, uncertainty, and undeniable creativity… until World War II ended the migration of Americans to Paris.

“Where I Write in Paris”

We live in a new era, though Paris still offers much of what it once did. Writers can still find inspiration here among the bistros, boulevards, bridges and monuments. The very aesthetics of the city becomes the muse. But there is more to writing in Paris than being inspired by the architecture. There is something about the very environment sitting in a cafe watching the endless stream of humanity pass in pursuit of countless destinations. Men. Women. Children. People of all ages, races, beliefs, moving in concert to the rhythm of the city that is its pulse.

In this cafe the air is filled with conversation and language becomes irrelevant as one needs not always understand words to know their meaning as human emotions are shared the world over and are expressed in familiar tones through laughter and tears, surprise and disbelief.

Beyond open windows the wind whispers secrets through the trees and over cultivated gardens filled with summer flowers. Here comes the rain to add its own voice to the symphony followed by the gentle hum of the warming sun. Here countless sensations spawn a lifetime of ideas for those who seek. The writer only has to take in what is offered, set pen to paper without hesitation or reservation, and allow the words to drip like paint onto canvas.

This is Paris for this writer. I come to this same cafe every morning to write. Words come easily for the countless distractions I know at home are irrelevant here. Here in this cafe there is only a cafe au lait, some bread with jam, my story and the city beyond.

Will writers one day return to Paris to rediscover what so many writers before them once knew? I like to think we already we have.

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You can buy a lock from a street vender for as little as three Euro to demonstrate your love for that special someone. Here’s the spiel… Hold hands. Kiss. Whisper sweet nothings for a really, really long time. Then lock the shiny symbol to the bridge and throw the key into the river. Romantic, right? How about this idea? Keep the key and promise to return in a year. If you are financially stabile enough to do so, can still stand one another after journeying twice to a foreign country, haven’t lost the key, can remember where you left the lock, and if Paris officials have not busted your promise with a hefty pair of bolt cutters, then do all the same romantic cooing as before and remove the three Euro trinket. Take it home. Frame it. Hang it on your Christmas tree- ’cause that’s a lock worth keeping!

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To truly enjoy a vacation, one must first work. Then a leisurely stroll along the river in Paris is a welcome respite from the toil and labor of writing in your favorite restaurant on the Rue de Popincourt–well, almost. I wouldn’t say that my writing this morning is toilsome, but my endeavors are productive and I finish another chapter of my current draft. I reach my daily goal of a thousand words and set off on my daily walk, unsure of where the cobblestones might take me, but certain a welcome destination awaits me at the end.

Houseboats on La SeineClassic Car on HouseboatThe Seine is an easy mile from my apartment as the crow flies, but more like three miles considering I prefer to zig zag through the smaller streets instead of walking the broader boulevards. I use the compass on my phone to keep me heading generally south south-west knowing the river will eventually greet me. When it does, I am surprised to find I am more west than I thought and see the Louvre rising up before me. So I pay my respects to the pyramids and sit on the grass a while near the Arc de Triomph du Carrousel before crossing the river to circle the Musee d’Orsay. I check the museum hours as it is closed today and see that it is open late on Thursdays. The Impressionists at night sounds like a grand idea. I make a mental note.

Continuing my walk, I descend the steps to the riverfront passage that runs along the river Seine. Houseboats line the walkway and I send my best bonjour to the inhabitants and smile when the dogs who have been barking at the other passersby tilt their head and smile at me. Even French dogs know a dog person! One houseboat has a tiny classic car resting on the stern, and I wonder when it was last driven.

Inspiration flows as easy as the river in Paris. I find a nice spot under a bridge and outline my next chapter. I couldn’t know how exciting this bridge would be. France will be celebrating Bastille Day on July 14 with a traditional parade that is very patriotic in a militaristic way- soldiers, tanks, and as I discovered to be true today, the air force. I can hear from beneath the bridge the unmistakable thunder of a jet rattling the very stones above me. A minute later there is another. Then another. Through the trees I can see the planes to accompany the parade- jets, props, massive bombers, even a row of helicopters.

But this is not all. A police boat moves up and down the river and begins circling just on the other side of my bridge. Then a diver falls backwards into the water. Within the hour, a larger ship appears with a crane from which dangles a giant hook the diver takes below to, can you believe, a car! The crane hoists la voiture from its watery grave and lowers it onto the deck.

I know there can be some serious litter in city waterways, but come on! Isn’t it time that we all learn to recycle? (click on pictures above to enlarge)

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